The Tea Seller of Nandgaon

NG Food 3

Sitting cross-legged amidst his confectioneries he was starting to get impatient.

“Aap rehne he do, nahi bechni aur kachori aapko” (leave it now, I don’t want to sell any more kachoris to you) he said with slight irritation. There was no anger in his words, only his speech gave away a hint of hesitation.

After all, our little group of photographers, who had descended upon Nandgaon for their annual Holi celebrations, was good business for him. We’d already purchased 8, was it 9, or maybe 10 kachoris and before he could finish his sentence, another one from the group picked up a samosa and went away saying “ek aur add karlena” (add one more).

“Paisa sab kuch hai” he would later say. Money is everything. Maybe we city folk were not all that different in our thinking from him. This time though we were bargaining with him for space.

NG Food 2

As it happened, his house bordered the village’s main field where the Lathmar Holi was about to commence. All the vantage points had been “booked” prior, and our little group of first-timers was left wondering where to go.

The Tea Seller’s house was in demand. One of the two terraces had already been booked by a film crew. A group of 15 odd foreigners had been surviving the afternoon sun on the other for a few hours now. As we sat outside, picking a samosa every few minutes, 15 now was it or maybe 16, we began our negotiations with polishing his ego. A little appreciation of his food – which in all honesty was tasty – and general chit chat, acting innocent and inquiring about the festival and how it is performed as if he was the ultimate authority on all things Nandgaon.

A few from our group left in search of other spots, beaten by his to and fro attitude. Some of us had seen it all before. That ego, that feeling of power – he had something we wanted – is what drives a man to feel special.

As luck would have it, soon the group of foreigners, beaten by the blistering heat, left and our Tea Seller loosened up. Once again that hesitation in his voice emerged for no longer was he denying our request outright.

While the negotiations were in progress, the tab on the Tea, Samosas, and Kachoris kept on going up; 9 Samosas, 10 Kachoris, 10 Teas, a Lassi and 2 Bottles of Fanta… that irritation would creep up every few minutes only to subside quickly for we had crossed that boundary of just being a seller and buyer now.

Just then, a man who had been listening to us plead called me aside and said: “He’s a greedy man, offer him some money”. Ah! Money, it is everything after all.


We knew we had him where it mattered. Till then we had only requested to go to the balcony, leaving money aside because we weren’t sure how he would take the offer. Now though, with little time left and no alternate, we made our first proposal. Maybe it was the ego polishing, or perhaps he just wanted us to go away, but the final nail was hammered in as he accepted without much thought.

A crisp, new, sans demonetization, 500 Rupee note – for the 5 of us who remained – was presented to him, in as ceremonial fashion as possible. His brother who had been running the restaurant inside and playing the bargaining game in-between was a little shocked at the amount settled. But, it was too late. Hands had been shaken. The Tea Seller had made too much a big deal about his own ethics and morals that he could not go back.

Tarun and Varun, if I remember correctly, were their names. Tarun had sat there cross-legged serving tea to the locals, and aerated drinks to me, with the occasional Lassi, running his business on one end and making money off his prime location in the village on the other.

Tarun the Tea Seller

When I look back to that eventful day in Nandgaon, I fondly remember this little tete-a-tete of sorts that took place between the Tea Seller and us. Sometimes, no matter the outcome, it’s fun to interact with the locals on such a basic and intimate level. When we finally departed, everyone was happy, smiles all around, and we even made last-minute purchases for the trip back home. I might not have taken much from the meeting, but it’s a memory that I will cherish, as weird as it may seem…

…and then, let’s not forget, while we waited, we did consume quite a few of those Kachoris and Samosas… 23 was it now or 24?

I guess neither Tarun nor I, will ever know the correct number.


The Tea Seller of Nandgaon

60 replies »

  1. An awesome write-up on our tryst with Kachori seller and our perseverence that led us to his terrace, an apt vantage point to capture all the action. You have been able to weave a story out of all the haggling that happened amidst supply of yummy Samosas n Kachoris, that left a lingering taste that lasted the entire evening. Cheers!

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Always great to remember those interactions with people. Good that you finally managed to get in and I guess already full from the food you ate!! A little bit of money goes a long way, its sometimes surprising what you can bargain for.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Yeah, and although I didn’t mind paying for the spot, because that’s just business and if I was in his place I would ask too, but didn’t want to just assume he would take it and chance him getting offended. Still, all ended well.


  3. This is an interesting story about the tea seller and a little bit of the bargaining culture. On another note, the samosas must have been good for you to eat so many. Wonderful picture from the balcony, of the view and the crowd.

    Liked by 1 person

  4. Haha, That’s a fun account. It was a gripping story and I loved reading something different from what one usually hears about Nandgaon Holi. I am glad you got a chance to eat all those kachris and samosas. I love it!

    Liked by 1 person

  5. What an interesting experience! I love interacting with locals when I travel. It’s such a great way to learn to understand a new place (and it’s even better if there is food and tea involved). Glad all ended well and that you were able to get the spot you wanted by paying!

    Liked by 1 person

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