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Ancient Delhi – A Walk through Mehrauli Archeological Park

History defines us.

We are what we are today because of our past. While many may disregard the ancient and focus on the present or the future, the truth remains that understanding out history can give an insight into what and how we came to be.

History surrounds us.

It’s here, there, inside thick jungles, among modern structures, often in plain sight, to be admired, understood, studied, accessible to those with a keen eye and interest.

behind-the-gates

The capital of the largest democracy in the world, New Delhi, is one such place where history is seeped into every nook and corner. It has, over the years, either hidden itself in the last few green belts that dot the city or has been made the basis of many a modern constructions in such a fashion that often it’s hard to distinguish the new from the old.

A city that has over centuries been a prized possession for Rulers from far and beyond; Kings and Queens who lived or ruled in grandeur, fought for the city to control an entire nation, and eventually left, defeated, or perished into its very soil, leaving behind their mark in the form of buildings, architecture, art, culture, and stories of courage, revenge, deceit, and cruelty, that have fascinated generations.

Delhi is the city where I was born and spent half of my life, and yet its history eludes me. I visited monuments like the Qutub Minar and Humayun’s Tomb as a child on school trips and the historic magnificence and family friendliness of Lodi Gardens makes it the perfect day escape during warm winter afternoons.

balbans-tomb-remains

But, there is a Delhi that exists beyond these “popular” sites; Places where everyday life has taken over the stones, ruins, buildings, memorials, and houses, that centuries ago were an integral part of the city. What does remain standing is slowly crumbling – out of neglect, with graffiti on the walls that highlight love between couples but not for our own history, and squatting and encroachment, as property, be it centuries old, is and will always remain of importance in this royal city.

The only way to save our history is by spreading knowledge about it. The more the people are aware of its existence the more it hopefully becomes important.

As I walked through the Mehrauli Archeological Park in South Delhi, close to Qutub Minar, I went about in fascination of this 200 acre region seeing remains of an ancient city – rooms so low that people only used them to store their belongings, sleeping on the outside, and cooking in communal kitchens – and learning how my hometown came into existence.

The area comprises of imposing step wells to explore, tombs and mosques with the most intricate of art on its walls – whatever remains of it, relics of a British guesthouse, and remainder of the walls that once formed the exteriors of Lal Kot fort.

Walk into the tiny yet crowded lanes of Mehrauli Village and the amalgamation of the ancient and the new makes for interesting architecture full of colour, beauty, the occasional ugliness, and a collection of people from all faiths, living together that is hard to find elsewhere.

baoli

I won’t go into the history, that’s for you to find out and also because this space would be too small for all the stories that will astonish you.

Instead, I shall whet your appetite with some photographs that will hopefully make you get up early one weekend morning to take a walk through this lesser explored part of the city; A walk, that will enlighten you with sites unknown, surprise you with colours so vibrant in the most unassuming of places, and tickle your nostrils for the air is full of stomach grumbling smells as the small restaurants prepare for the day ahead. Most of all, it will bring you close to the people, who live here, and are responsible for making Delhi a multicultural hotpot that it is.

guard

jamali-kamali-bw

jamali-kamali-people

dog

balbans-tomb

inscriptions

lanes

jamali-kamali

rajon-ki-baoli

residents-of-mehrauli

tomb

jamali-kamali-lock

45 Comments

  • Tracey O'Brien
    Posted 3 February, 17 at 12:13 AM

    Loved this post! Beautiful photos. Thank you.

    Reply
  • Post Author
    Ticker Eats The World
    Posted 3 February, 17 at 1:09 AM

    Thanks Tracey.

    Reply
  • Evelina Di Lauro
    Posted 4 February, 17 at 2:09 AM

    Amazing photography

    Reply
  • usfman
    Posted 4 February, 17 at 3:49 AM

    My wife and I will be touring New Delphi on a Gate 1 tour in March. I hope to see the real India as your post indicated.

    Reply
    • Post Author
      Ticker Eats The World
      Posted 4 February, 17 at 8:46 AM

      Well, all of it is “real” but yes there is a lot more to it than just the popular sites. Wish you an amazing trip.

      Reply
  • Kavey at Kavey Eats
    Posted 4 February, 17 at 3:07 PM

    Loving all your beautiful Delhi photographs. Next time I go to India, must visit this archeological park, had no idea of its existence. I have family in Delhi so have visited many times over 4+ decades but not been there!

    Reply
    • Post Author
      Ticker Eats The World
      Posted 4 February, 17 at 3:18 PM

      Can’t blame you. I loved about 15 minutes away from it and while I was remotely aware of its existence, I never visited it. Thanks

      Reply
  • sg
    Posted 4 February, 17 at 4:22 PM

    Wow, this place looks amazing. Love your images. They are so raw and beautiful and really capture the story of the place. Thanks for sharing.

    Reply
  • Noel Morata
    Posted 4 February, 17 at 10:06 PM

    Gorgeous photographs, beautiful imagery of this fascinating and historic city, I loved how you portrayed Delhi and the wonderful monuments.

    Reply
  • Kisty Mea
    Posted 4 February, 17 at 10:13 PM

    I’m really happy when people write blog posts about India, I think it deserves the attention. It’s an interesting country.

    Reply
    • Post Author
      Ticker Eats The World
      Posted 5 February, 17 at 1:52 PM

      Thanks, it’s quite vibrant and diverse with something for everyone.

      Reply
  • Jennifer Ryder Joslin
    Posted 6 February, 17 at 7:20 AM

    I have visited Delhi many times, but have never been to Mehrauli Archeological Park. I love your photos and descriptions of the place. Will have to go next time we are in Delhi! Thank you for sharing 🙂

    Reply
  • vishalgmr1971
    Posted 6 February, 17 at 8:11 AM

    I’ve been to the Mehrauli Archeological Park a few times while I lived in Delhi and last time I visited was in 2015. I really enjoyed it and every time I visited something new came up.

    Reply
    • Post Author
      Ticker Eats The World
      Posted 6 February, 17 at 6:58 PM

      That’s really nice and it does have a lot of hidden features and monuments so a historical walk is always recommended so someone can guide you.

      Reply
  • Divya Chandrashekar
    Posted 6 February, 17 at 2:36 PM

    wonderful write up.Amazing clicks.

    Reply
  • Anita Hendrieka
    Posted 6 February, 17 at 7:07 PM

    Oh, I am so gutted that I missed out on this when I went to Delhi. It’s so incredible what history such a chaotic city can hold!

    Reply
    • Post Author
      Ticker Eats The World
      Posted 6 February, 17 at 7:13 PM

      And I’ve lived my whole life here and still haven’t discovered it. More reasons to visit again. Thanks

      Reply
  • Antonette Spaan
    Posted 7 February, 17 at 2:32 AM

    Very colorful and pretty!

    Reply
  • Beerandcroissants
    Posted 7 February, 17 at 3:48 AM

    Looks like an incredible place to visit. Great images that really tell the story. I really love visiting archaelogical places and ruins – find them really fascinating.

    Reply
  • Sandy N Vyjay
    Posted 7 February, 17 at 10:54 AM

    Delhi is indeed one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities of the world. Mehrauli is really a place where one can feel and hear the echoes of a glorious past. A region steeped in history and a place to experience the touch and feel of the past.

    Reply
  • matheikal
    Posted 8 February, 17 at 10:13 PM

    This is a lovely place though parts of it are not maintained well.

    Reply
  • magiceye
    Posted 9 February, 17 at 7:00 AM

    History well captured! Shall surely visit next time am in Delhi. Thank you.

    Reply
  • The Untourists
    Posted 9 February, 17 at 8:39 AM

    And that too right here in Mehrauli! So much heritage and how many people know! Thanks for bringing this out…

    Reply
  • 2travellingsisters
    Posted 9 February, 17 at 11:47 AM

    Beautiful narration of the history of Delhi! Mehrauli looks incredible through your lens….

    Reply
  • coloradotravelingducks
    Posted 10 February, 17 at 9:25 PM

    All your photos are great, but I have my favorites, of course. Love the narrow street, and inside buildings looking down long arch ways. Thanks for sharing.

    Reply
  • 100cobbledroads
    Posted 9 March, 17 at 5:44 PM

    You’re so right, Delhi’s history is so deep and varied, that even residents know just a fraction of their city. We went for one of these heritage walks in Mehrauli Archeological Park recently, so I can well relate to this post. Each picture speaks a thousand words.

    Reply
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  • Rashmi and Chalukya
    Posted 30 January, 18 at 5:10 PM

    Every time we see those compelling pictures of Mehrauli Archeological Park we regret not visiting them during our Delhi visit. We planned to visit the Qutub Minar on the last day before leaving for the airport and though we had enough time everyone from the hotel owner to our travel agent and taxi driver convinced us that its a place completely in ruins and there is nothing to stop by and is just a waste of time. Now we regret not doing our research and believing these people who don’t value their heritage and culture.

    Reply
  • Swati Jain
    Posted 8 February, 18 at 3:51 PM

    This is one lot of a place I really like to go again and again. So much of history and heritage imbedded at one place. Some really lovely photographs in your blog. Keep exploring 🙂

    Reply
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