Architecturally brilliant, Neemrana Bawadi is a stepwell steeped in Indian heritage. With many a story afloat about hidden tunnels leading in and out of the monument, there is a sense of secrecy that lingers in the thick and crisp air of the stepwell’s lower floors.
The Neemrana Bawadi (also written as Baori or Bawri) is still “unknown”, standing tall below the ground, in plain sight, overlooked by almost everyone.
Situated a little over an hour from Delhi, a relatively straight drive on the Delhi-Jaipur highway leads the occasional traveller to an unassuming spot in Neemrana. Known for its luxurious Neemrana Fort Palace, the town has become industrial over the last decade with many factories occupying the previously vacant land.
The location of the baori is quiet, a single signboard, in blue, mentioning its presence. It’s easy to miss the baori unless you are looking for it. Its appearance, from up top, is often misleading, for the splendour of this ancient marvel is only visible once you step down a few flights of stairs.
Because it is not frequented by “outsiders”, even a little bit of activity in the vicinity often invites locals, wondering what is going on. Why the sudden interest in a monument, constructed in the mid-1700s, that no one has taken note of for the last few decades? It’s mostly young boys on motorcycles, or children from nearby houses, who might stand and stare, but don’t interfere or interrupt.
The Bawadi remains a source of mystery, as very little is known about it. There is no information available on-site, so visitors get to explore the area on their own. Some of the passageways have been sealed, possibly for safety reasons. Then again, one needs to manoeuvre the site with caution on the whole. Ledges, steps, and even the main well remain unprotected. A wrong step here can prove to be deadly.
The locals refer to the monument as Rani ki Baoli (Queen’s stepwell). Even though the Bawadi is a lot grander than many other stepwells found in nearby Delhi, such as Rajon ki Baori in Mehrauli Archaeological Park, it does lack a royal atmosphere. Its location near the Neemrana Fort, visible from a hill behind the complex, might also lead us to believe that there is a royal connection.
However, there are no engravings or intricate designs, as seen in Rani ki Vav in Gujarat, that would present a definite royal link. There are many secret passages within the baori, and some are believed to be going out all the way to the fort.
A more acceptable thought is that the bawadi was constructed keeping in mind draught and was also a guest house for travellers. With room-like areas on top, and simple construction consisting of arches, this could very well be true.
The architecture of the Neemrana Bawadi is remarkable to view from down below. Its imposing size is magnificent, made even more spectacular with countless pigeons and parakeets taking flight above the open top. Close to 200 steps lead down the seven floors (2 more levels lie filled with mud and are often underwater) to an area that would have seen better days a few centuries ago.
The locals also believe that the bawadi is haunted. Then again, most ancient palaces, forts, monuments have some supernatural element to them. Personally, during the day time, I never got that haunting feeling, but who knows what goes on here at night. Would I venture out unaccompanied after dusk? No!
It’s best to visit the Neemrana Bawadi early in the morning. One good aspect about the stepwell still being under the radar is that you can explore it in its entirety, unlike the famous Chand Baori which has now been cordoned off.
But the step-well here faces the ever-present struggle most monuments in India must tolerate, that of immature individuals thinking these ancient walls are the best place to announce their love for each other. Graffiti is rampant and does take away from the beauty of the baori.
My fascination with step-wells seems to grow bigger with every new one that I visit. A discovery here, and a finding there, this interest in these subterranean water reservoirs is amplified whenever I come to know of one that is situated near to where I live.
As I stand in awe of my country’s cultural legacy, I can’t but feel sad about the state it lies in. As we move towards a future filled with technology, I can only hope that we cling to our past in any way possible, especially when it is as beautiful as the Neemrana Bawadi.
Neemrana Bawadi (aka Neemrana Deep Water Step Well) – Google Maps Location
29 Comments
arv!
Great pictures, Raghav. GoPro or DSLR?
I have a feeling that sooner or later these Baoris will decay as even govt. doesn’t have any plan or money to restore. Most Baoris across Rajasthan are in a bad state. A few large ones get renovated every few years but the question remains that where do they fit in our plan?
Just for your information, Aman Nath of Neemrana group is building a hotel in a new Baori.
Ticker Eats The World
Thank you, and most are actually iPhone Xs with just one GoPro in this case. I had the DSLR and maybe one or two are with it, but the lighting was really crappy, espeically since I was not using a stand.
Sad to know about the baoris. I do believe giving them for commercial use, like you mentioned is a good idea. It might limit them to a select few with money, but the heritage is maintained at least.
I do believe involving people can go a long way. The governemnt if they want can involve corporates or the general public for funds, provided they are used properly.
arv!
For the phone pictures, the shots are amazing.
Somehow the government projects are usually badly implemented or lacks vision. Let me not mention the collusion and corruption. Yes there are a few exceptions. I thought of writing about the ancient baoris in Jaipur but never went beyond Panna Meena Kund. I hope I’m able to write about them soon
Ticker Eats The World
You Should. I’m not sure if anything will happen, but the more people know about it, at least they can see it before it colapses into a big rubble some day.
arv!
I agree with your thoughts
Voyager For Life (@renukawalter)
These are exceptionally brilliant pictures!
Ticker Eats The World
Thank you very much.
wanderfulweekendz
Wow! This step well is huge! Plain but huge. Sad that no one is making any efforts to maintain it…
Ticker Eats The World
Yes, that really is sad. I do believe that there is a certain charm to it becasue of its plain-ness, but one reason for its simplicity could be that it was for common people and not for royal use.
wanderfulweekendz
Aah ok… it surely is very deep. I was trying to count the number of levels. Must be atleast five – six.
Ticker Eats The World
9 Actually. About 15+ feet each. 7 are clearly visible. 8 partially and 9 apparently was under mud.
wanderfulweekendz
Wow! Amazing!
matheikal
A delightful post about a wonderful place.
Ticker Eats The World
Thank you so much.
dNambiar
What an amazing structure. To think about the places it might lead to makes it even more intriguing. Now that’s a place that needs some TLC. And mishaps there could lead to a total shut down, right?
Ticker Eats The World
Yes, and I was reeally surprised how people with kids were walking around without a worry. It surprises me how we and especially the governement seems careless towards our national heritage.
dNambiar
Love that first picture and the light in it!!
Ticker Eats The World
Thank you, the advantage of getting there early.
Adele
Photos are lovely – was surprised to read in the comments most were from your iPhone. You have a very good eye on photo taking. Its amazing this structure allows people to wander freely around.
Carrie Ann Karstunen
I had to look up what a stepwell is, as I had never heard of such a building before. The first definition was “the stairwell of a bus”, which I knew wasn’t right! I then found the correct definition for the context. OK, now I’m on the same page 😀 This is definitely an interesting structure, and I hope it’s able to be stabilized and maintained. I’d be too nervous to explore it in its current state, so thank you for taking us on a photo and video tour!
Jane Dempster-Smith
Excellent photos? Please share what you were using. Neemrana is a must visit after reading your article. Thanks for sharing.
Ticker Eats The World
Most of the photos are from my iPhone Xs. I did take a few with my DSLR but the lighting was bad, and since I didn’t get a tripod or anything else, the phone photos were a lot better.
shreyasaha1987
The pictures are epic. There are many step wells in Rajasthan and this is surely one of the interesting ones. I would love to step in the history while visiting this place. I haven’t visited this place while in Rajasthan and I am surely not going to miss it next time I visit there.
Monica
Having lived so close to this monument, I had little idea of where it exactly is. I am so surprised to see the grandeur of this lesser known monument. Its really sad to see the condition of such a beautiful architect left unattended. Thank you for sharing this and I shall discover this enroute Gurgaon next. Though Rajasthan is full of Baoris yet you find the architect is so unique in its own way.
Soraya
Wow the Neemrana Bawadi does look very mysterious…if only the walls could talk, I could imagine all the stories that it might share. At least the overall architecture remains, but it is sad to see it in some ruins, with graffiti and garbage left by strangers. But what a great spot for a photographer – your photos are incredibly moving and you can feel the sense of mystery here. I can totally see why the locals believe it is haunted – your photos so have an eery feeling that is haunting yet so beautiful at the same time.
Daniel
Wow, this is really one of the best photo essays I’ve seen lately. The Neemrana Bawadi sure looks like a mysterious place. The architecture is absolutely fascinating and this place seems like heaven for photographers.