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Laxmi Mishthan Bhandar – Eating in the Past

Why feel nostalgia when you can actually live it.

Laxmi Mishthan Bhandar, or LMB as it is popularly known, in the heart of Jaipur, is a place where time has stood still for decades, and yet it remains one of the most iconic and cherished places to eat inside the walls of the pink city.

A two-day work trip had taken me and my father to Jaipur and while I searched on the web, prior to our departure, for places to eat, he announced – as he normally does – that we shall be eating at Laxmi Mishthan Bhandar. He had eaten there close to three decades ago and had fond memories of the place. Wanting to relive that memory, all other possible options were authoritatively discarded.

On a normal day, my father is wary of travelling through crowded small lanes, but even though LMB is situated in one of the busiest parts of the city, he remained adamant. His mind didn’t change when en route we got lost in the by-lanes or when we had to take a long circular way to get back on the right track. There was no changing our destiny.


An hour and a half later I walked out of LMB with a smile on my face and a tummy so full that once I hit the bed that late afternoon, I did not get out of it till the very next morning.

LMB has been in the food business since 1727 and are proud “Halwaies”. In a country where everyone is claiming to be a pub, a brewery, a restaurant, or something Western on those lines, they have remained as local and as regional as one can get.

Cramped between pink buildings, easy to miss if you are not searching for it, the smell of oil hits you the moment you enter through their main door which comprises of the “fast food” or Halwai section. On one corner, another door, manned by a guard, lets you into the main restaurant.

It’s a room that has seen it all. The walls, even though re-painted over the years with a more “modern”decor, are worn down from hearing decades of secrets, hush romantic whispers, gossip, longing conversational silences, and the most mundane of discussions.


On the afternoon we visited, it was full; a table occupied by foreign visitors with a worn down Lonely Planet safely tucked in one hand, a group of young girls had taken over a large table and seemed to be enjoying a reunion of sorts. There were a few business deals happening around and in another corner, a large group was concluding what had been a loud and cheerful kitty party.

And then there was the occasional first timer – very much like us – who had wondered in wanting to taste the traditional Rajasthani food, having read about the establishment most probably by word of mouth or as in the case of my father, simply reliving the long not-so-forgotten past.

The staff at LMB is quintessential old-fashioned, the type that adds to the scene and without whom the legend would eventually die down. Their faces and the ease with which they move around the room proof of the fact that they’ve worked here for decades, possibly all their lives. They approach with an almost sixth sense of knowing the guest and whether he/she needs just the menu or a detailed explanation of what they serve – a hint towards the international clientele they obviously get.

The menu has all the classics under heads like “Mem sahib ki pasand” and “Dakshin Bharat Se”, but if visiting for the first time, it’s recommended you go with their specialty, the Rajasthani Thali.


The Thali “commences” with a very unique looking bowl of Papad Mangori – Paprika flavored clear lentil ball – soup that is so spicy yet so tasty that I couldn’t give a damn about my burning mouth as I cleaned the bowl up in minutes.

The actual Thali, when it arrives, is too big for the table. Having ordered two meant there was hardly enough space left – millennials would freak out considering they are so old fashioned they obviously don’t even have space for mobile phones. The thali does have a grand feel to it, with enough space to mix up the ingredients as they should be.

The diameter of the thali aside, I must at this point caution you for at first glance the quantities seem insufficient – especially if you are as hungry as we were – but it was probably the heaviest meal – think two elephants heavy – I’ve ever had in my life.


The Churma and Bati is tradition Rajasthani food made with flour which is then cooked in a charcoal oven and served dipped in ghee and jaggery on the side. Available in different flavours, its small size is contradictory to how large an effect it has on your tummy once you consumed it.

The Dal, Bela Rajasthani, Kadi are all traditionally prepared adding to the colourful heritage of the region that the thali is supposed to spotlight. The Kair Sangri which is a dessert vegetable cooked with caper beans is a favourite. Roti, raita, and a few small bowls of this and that make the Rajasthani Thali at LMB one of the Must Have food dishes in the city of Jaipur, especially if you want to get an introductory taste of the local cuisine.


Outside the sit-down restaurant is the Halwai section – one we initially crossed – which oozes even more old-world charm.

The cashier sits cross legged on a Gadda (mattress) behind the counter with a large iron box where the staff comes and deposits money and takes the change. There’s nothing electronic in sight. It’s free for all at first glance but obviously, there’s trust that runs deep between those that own and those that run the place.

Gods and Goddesses grace the wall behind the cashier in all their colourful glory. Display cases stacked up with boxes on the sides lure the customer into buying that one more thing. The counter is no less, with knick-knacks, sweet and savoury, assembled in lines to entice the unassuming customer into picking up another local delicacy. It’s simple in-your-face marketing the old way.


Homeward bound, we picked up boxes of Ghewar – a disc shaped aerated cake like sweet made with flour and sugar – to take back along with another specialty of LMB, Pyaz ki Kachori. Often had at breakfast, lunch, or with evening tea, the Kachori at LMB is by far one of the most delicious ones available – not too spicy and full of taste. A kachori has the versatility to go with a chola, dal, Kadi, or as most have it, on its own and the LMB ki Kachori is as celebrated as the restaurant.

In a world where the glitzy interiors of restaurants shine bright in our eyes and liquid nitrogen smoke up rooms in amazement, LMB is an establishment that has stayed the same over centuries, celebrating food in its authentic form, as it continues to provide the kind of “those good ol’ days” charm that is so hard to find in this day and age.


  • Anonymous
    Posted 18 November, 16 at 10:54 PM

    Loved the piece .. amazing description..

  • arv!
    Posted 19 November, 16 at 12:13 AM

    Lmb is certainly an iconic place in the walled city area of Jaipur. Lmb ghevar are very popular. Personally, I have always ended up with bad experiences at Lmb. However there’s no denying that it is a must visit place for tourist. Great post, Raghav. Next time do try Pyaaz Kachori at Rawat in Jaipur. It is immensely popular. 🙂

    • Ticker Eats The World
      Posted 19 November, 16 at 1:12 AM

      Thanks Arv. I remember talking to you before going but my dad was adamant about LMB. Nevertheless, loved it and the Ghewar and Kachori both were appreciated at home. Will definitely check with you about other must see/eat places before the next trip. Thanks

      • arv!
        Posted 19 November, 16 at 11:20 AM

        Its good that you visited LMB Raghav. Sometimes, reliving on old memories is much more rewarding than the actual experience. I’m happy that both enjoyed the place 🙂

  • sudhagee
    Posted 23 November, 16 at 1:57 PM

    Reading your post brought back memories, Raghav.

    I first visited LMB in 1982 with my parents and remember stuffing myself on the Rabri. I visited LMB again in the winter of 2014 on my way to Shekhawati. The food was okay, a little heavy for me, but the rabri was still as good. I came back with lots of sweets for distribution at work and home.

    The next time I visit LMB, I’m going to try the thali. I love them. 🙂

    • Ticker Eats The World
      Posted 23 November, 16 at 2:06 PM

      Awesome! But beware, the Thali is super duper heavy so go empty stomach and you’ll still manage to skip dinner for sure. I’m glad you have fond memories of the place. Thanks

  • Anne @TravelTheGlobe (@TTGLOBE4L)
    Posted 3 December, 16 at 10:00 PM

    This looks like a great find. I would definitely love to visit Jaipur and will seek out this restaurant when I eventually make it there. Love the story

    • Ticker Eats The World
      Posted 3 December, 16 at 10:10 PM

      Thanks and yes it’s quintessential Rajasthani food and a step into the past.

  • Anna Faustino
    Posted 4 December, 16 at 12:13 PM

    Gosh…this post just made me hungry! Thanks for the recommendation- will definitely keep this in mind if ever we head to Jaipur!

  • mostlyamelie
    Posted 4 December, 16 at 2:26 PM

    This place looks absolutely lovely, and you created such a nice narrative around it <3

  • Christina
    Posted 4 December, 16 at 6:14 PM

    You won’t go hungry in India if you enjoy the taste of Thali. I love the flavours and the variations of Thali in different parts of India.

    • Ticker Eats The World
      Posted 4 December, 16 at 8:02 PM

      That’s actually so true. Every region has a thali of some sorts with completely different ingredients and flavours. Cheera

  • Candace and Spencer
    Posted 4 December, 16 at 11:00 PM

    Beautifully written! My husband is a massive food so this would be right up his street. Plus we love a local dish, shall definitely have to pay it a visit some day, thank you for the inspiration 😉 The Austin’s (

    • Ticker Eats The World
      Posted 4 December, 16 at 11:03 PM

      That’s great to know and yeah it would be quite the feast. Hope you get to try it soon. Cheers

  • Mar Pages
    Posted 5 December, 16 at 5:11 PM

    That looks like the real deal, authentic, rustic and humble. The food looks like it was made by a friend’s mother, so nutritious and tasty. I love restaurants without the frills, just good food.

  • Anita Hendrieka (@AnitaHendrieka)
    Posted 5 December, 16 at 5:44 PM

    I miss thali! It was one of my favourite foods in India. Great article! You have made me hungry now!

    • Ticker Eats The World
      Posted 5 December, 16 at 6:01 PM

      Yeah great way to get a taste of everything. Where did you have it? Cheera

  • TravelingMel
    Posted 5 December, 16 at 7:22 PM

    In business since 1727? Wow! I guess they know what they are doing. The food looks great and how fun to get to go back to a spot with fond memories.

    • Ticker Eats The World
      Posted 5 December, 16 at 7:46 PM

      Yeah, they would have started really small and have expanded over the years but the old world charm still remains.

  • wowtravelersworld
    Posted 5 December, 16 at 7:50 PM

    I love your writing, you are a great story teller! Why feel nostalgia when you can actually live it- love it!

  • Neha Verma
    Posted 5 December, 16 at 9:41 PM

    wish I had read this post before . I was in Jaipur in september but alas didn’t know about this place

  • Sydney Fashion Hunter
    Posted 6 December, 16 at 2:39 AM

    I love Indian food! It’s great that LMB has retained the traditional methods. The take home aerated cakes look delicious!

    • Ticker Eats The World
      Posted 6 December, 16 at 12:24 PM

      Yeah the Ghewar as they are known are a favourite and they taste divine. Quite filling as well and perfect for anyone with a sweet tooth.

  • Gemma
    Posted 6 December, 16 at 3:37 AM

    This is amazing, I wish I had known about this place when I was in India. The thali looks incredible!

  • Crazy Dutch Abroad
    Posted 6 December, 16 at 6:01 AM

    This looks really amazing! Only about a year ago I discovered the taste of Indian food, and loved it, better late than never right?!
    After reading this I really want to visit India to explore this ‘real Indian taste’, it looks delicious.

    • Ticker Eats The World
      Posted 6 December, 16 at 12:22 PM

      Cheers and I hope you do. Another important point to remember is that because India is so huge the food changes from region to region drastically so you’ll always find something that will tingle your taste buds.

  • Iza Abao, Two Monkeys Travel Group Writer
    Posted 6 December, 16 at 6:36 AM

    This restaurant looks legendary. I would love to try the desserts/sweets! Indian food has huge servings based on my own experience. I always want to share so that my friends and I can taste more dishes. I just saw the photo that this is an “eggless bakery”. So interesting!

    • Ticker Eats The World
      Posted 6 December, 16 at 12:22 PM

      Yes and I guess Indian food almost always revolves around sharing. Although the Thali comes with specific instructions that it cannot be shared.

  • wanguiontravel
    Posted 6 December, 16 at 11:35 AM

    If I ever visit Jaipur , I will definately look up Laxmi Mishthan Bhandar. Thank you for this.

  • Janine Good
    Posted 7 December, 16 at 1:01 AM

    This restaurant looks fab! I was in Jaipur a few years ago and am sad that I missed an opportunity to eat there. The food looks incredible and very flavourful! Thank you this wonderfully detailed review!

  • carla
    Posted 7 December, 16 at 6:34 AM

    I really loved your writing style and your photos! Looking forward to visit India soon!

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